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Changing a Transom (Ballast Vent) Valve from ‏ 1.5" to a 3"

A forum for discussing boat or trailer repairs or modifications that you have made or are considering.

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Changing a Transom (Ballast Vent) Valve from ‏ 1.5" to a 3"

Postby WidespreadSailing » Tue Apr 24, 2012 3:44 pm

I currently have a 1996 26X that has the transom valve with only a small 1 1/2 inch valve.
I am hoping to cut the hole bigger and use a 3 inch valve.

This was a "feature" that was changed in the later 1997 models.

Anyone with a 1996 or early 1997 26X know if that is possible / done it before.


OLD part from BWY.
1992 - 1997 19, 26X Hull Hdwr H209-1V0 [Click here to see more details about this product] TRANSOM VALVE, SMALL, 1 1/2 INCH WITH HANDLE


Hopefully new larger part from BWY
1997 - Current 26M, 26X Hull Hdwr H208-1V0 [Click here to see more details about this product] TRANSOM VALVE, SEAL, 3 INCH
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Re: Changing a Transom (Ballest Vent) Valve from ‏ 1.5" to a 3"

Postby Catigale » Wed Apr 25, 2012 11:29 am

The only caveat is enlarging the hole of course. It would suck if you cut outside the tank. Actually, it would sink, rather than suck....
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Re: Changing a Transom (Ballest Vent) Valve from ‏ 1.5" to a 3"

Postby WidespreadSailing » Wed Apr 25, 2012 1:39 pm

Catigale,

Now you have me nervous. Any other thoughts? I have read two folks who have done this but no real details written about how difficult and exactly where I can and can not place the unit.

Curious if I need used to drill out a 3' hole and then install a new Valterra Bladex Waste Valve. Or does the existing equipment also have parts inside the boat? Is there any type of flange on the inside?

Cal
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Re: Changing a Transom (Ballest Vent) Valve from ‏ 1.5" to a 3"

Postby Divecoz » Wed Apr 25, 2012 2:20 pm

I dont have an early X however....... I would FIRST check and see just how a big a hole that tank can accommodate.. Easy enough to do... start with removing the present valve..Feel inside all the way around for clearance " so to speak"....!!!!!! Measure 10 times cut once.. Get a flashlight get a cheap automotive inspection mirror and take a look inside. Borrow steal or beg a set of inside calipers and measure the interior space. Is it possible to ( if the physical limits demand it) to only open it up to 2" ....2 1/4" .......2 1/2 " or any standard hole saw size be it Electrical Plumbing or Carpentry sizes .. and still attach the New Bigger 3" Valve.. even a 2" hole increases your potential ingress egress volume by 33 -1/3%
I have a Hunch??? I am ALMOST willing to bet Roger didn't have to go through the expense of rebuilding any molds ( mid model year!) to change the size of that gate valve.. My Hunch is? this is a pretty simple mod..
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Re: Changing a Transom (Ballest Vent) Valve from ‏ 1.5" to a 3"

Postby kevinnem » Wed Apr 25, 2012 3:25 pm

If your goal is to empty the tank faster - have you considered injecting air in the other end?

I think I read about someone doing a mod that did this, and not only does ti let them "push" the water out faster, it also allows them to start doing so before the boat is even out of the water as it will "push" the water out while you are getting it on the trailer.

Just a thought, and not sure how well it would work.
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Re: Changing a Transom (Ballest Vent) Valve from ‏ 1.5" to a 3"

Postby Divecoz » Wed Apr 25, 2012 3:53 pm

Kevin the primary purpose of that possible mod is to raise a boat off a soft grounding.. Could you do this when you retrieve your boat? No Doubt you can but you still have that 1.5 egress hole..Interesting enough I too have read about others saying this should work but I don't remember anyone saying I Have Done This Mod ..I have added a pump as a raw water wash down pump.. I had an issue and my brother and I discussed solutions for soft grounds and getting the ballast empty.. In My Personal Case It was easier ( about $5 ) to just plumb a pipe into a new hole in the vent cup.. Just about everything was already there.. as a dedicated ballast pump.. foolish..and costly and it would not last long .. On the other hand hooking up that HVLP inflator would be nothing less than a PITA every time you yanked the boat out of the water.. At Least IMHO..
kevinnem wrote:If your goal is to empty the tank faster - have you considered injecting air in the other end?

I think I read about someone doing a mod that did this, and not only does ti let them "push" the water out faster, it also allows them to start doing so before the boat is even out of the water as it will "push" the water out while you are getting it on the trailer.

Just a thought, and not sure how well it would work.
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Re: Changing a Transom (Ballest Vent) Valve from ‏ 1.5" to a 3"

Postby WidespreadSailing » Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:15 pm

My other thought was a portable power wash down...

I like this option the least but it seems like it would work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PORTABLE-WASHDO ... 3f&vxp=mtr

I am not that concerned about how long it takes to empty out 150+ gallons (some is always left - right) because the only times I will really use this is on long trips. (Motoring for 3-6 hours.)

However - she sits in saltware about 11.5 months out of the year and it would be good if the boat 'floated' about 2 inches higher than she usually sits with her ballast full. With the rudders raised and pointed towards the sky the tips of the rudder are submerged about 1" inch. means there is always growth on them. (Makes the Queen unhappy.)

I leave for the FL Marquesas Island's in 2.5 weeks. YEAH.
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Re: Changing a Transom (Ballest Vent) Valve from ‏ 1.5" to a 3"

Postby kevinnem » Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:17 pm

no worries mate just tossing out some ideas.

This leaves me to pose 2 questions, firstly how effective would a forced air system be to inject air in ot the tank, thus displacing the water out the back? (maybe quite effective, depending on your goals).

And also as you mentioned - could you do 2 mods in 1? installing a water pump could work as a water rinse system, and a "balast empty system", you could even plumb it to feed in to a shower, or pressure water system.

I assume that the reason the OP wants to install a bigger value is to get off the ramp faster. I suggest that maybe the best way to do this is to dump ballast before you get there.

it might be that the value is striagt forward to replace, and this is needless discussion, just stimulating conversation.
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Re: Changing a Transom (Ballest Vent) Valve from ‏ 1.5" to a 3"

Postby Divecoz » Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:46 pm

Raw Water wash down pump systems are about $150..you still need the brass or plastic ( it ain't regular old plastic) thru hull fitting and a shut off valve and some hose etc etc etc .. Among other things on my 05 M I have my raw water wash down pump installed in the V berth storage area.. I have really Nice butterfly switches in the "kick portion" of the V berth wall that is in the head on a 05 M .. Flip switch #1 and the wash down pump runs flip switch #2 and a 12 V. Solenoid activates and it pumps from my ballast NOT my thru hull raw water pick up.. Flip switch #1 wash the boat .. Flip switch #2 pump the ballast down .. what the heck while your waiting to float the boat? WASH the boat : ) JSYK we had two guys on this board saying it wouldn't work .. it does it floats my boat in less than 15 minutes and that Bronze solenoid with SS ball is unaffected by salt water .. Believe me the water in a hot water commercial heating system is nastier than salt water .. again.. guys guessing about what they post about.. Nuff said..
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Re: Changing a Transom (Ballest Vent) Valve from ‏ 1.5" to a 3"

Postby Divecoz » Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:59 pm

Kevin I don't think I would want to shower or anything else but wash my deck and cockpit from my ballast water.. at best its lake water or maybe dirty lake water or even 6 month old nasty lake water.. or even ocean salt water .... I carry about? 25 gallons of fresh water in a bladder under the rear berth.. I have a solar bag I use for showers and I shower on the deck.. No Muss No Fuss No Clean up and if anything that water in the bag can get tooo hot.. I use a halyard to raise my bag about 8 to 10 feet? IN the air ( on the mast) .. Plenty of pressure at that height.. Hahahah It ain't a love pit its just for washing salt and grim off me, so I can enter the love pit hahahaha Oh Yea .. WE .. shower in swim suits 2 birds one stone..
IMHO a shower installed in the head of an X is a joke a bad joke .. But hey..show me one that works and I might change my mind.. That was a big contention back in the day when we had the WAR between X and M owners here... Yet No One Had Installed One and I dont think we have a member with one yet on an X.. JSYK... Nice thought not practicle ... major PITA ..
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Re: Changing a Transom (Ballest Vent) Valve from ‏ 1.5" to a 3"

Postby bugman » Thu Apr 26, 2012 12:57 am

I have a 96x and one of the first things I did was put a larger 3" transom valve on my boat. I was tired of holding up other boaters at the launch ramp well the ballast tank drained.
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Re: Changing a Transom (Ballest Vent) Valve from ‏ 1.5" to a 3"

Postby Divecoz » Thu Apr 26, 2012 6:54 am

Well Here is a guy who's done it.. Bugman... Tell us more Brother.... was it a straight forward cut the hole then R&R ? Did the bolts holes align ? was there plenty of flange material to cut and not get too close to the walls of the tank?
( As FogHorn LegHorn woud say...) Speak up son..... I say speak up son.... :D
bugman wrote:I have a 96x and one of the first things I did was put a larger 3" transom valve on my boat. I was tired of holding up other boaters at the launch ramp well the ballast tank drained.
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Re: Changing a Transom (Ballest Vent) Valve from ‏ 1.5" to a 3"

Postby WidespreadSailing » Thu Apr 26, 2012 6:59 am

bugman wrote:I have a 96x and one of the first things I did was put a larger 3" transom valve on my boat. I was tired of holding up other boaters at the launch ramp well the ballast tank drained.


Thanks for the response.
In one night I have received a way to do it and a confirmation that it can be done.

I will be tackling this issue next week. Thanks.

I love this forum.

Cal

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Re: Changing a Transom (Ballest Vent) Valve from ‏ 1.5" to a 3"

Postby kelseydo » Thu Apr 26, 2012 6:17 pm

Just did it to my 96X. piece of cake. The valve was $15 at a RV repair/parts place. Only the lower right (viewed from behind) mounting hole is re-usable. Two of the new holes could be through drilled with SS nylocks on the backside. The other two were tapped course thread for the new bolts. Used a sabre saw to open up the drain hole - do be careful about cutting/drilling too deep into the ballast tank. It's obvious when you get the old one off. Had to cant mine slightly to starboard to follow the hull which really work well as the handle shaft lined up with the old extension guide. My handle extension was about 1.5 inches to long so cut with a hacksaw and chucked in lathe to cut new threads.
Now if I could just get on the water to check out my new ETEC 90.
Dan
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Re: Changing a Transom (Ballest Vent) Valve from ‏ 1.5" to a 3"

Postby Catigale » Fri Apr 27, 2012 4:04 am

Cal..sorry I raised the FUD...drill away!!
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